The sound of music.....

   I know, I know, every other note seems to have a musical reference to it. It's hard not to. I am a rock and roll sort of chef. Music has alot of import for me. Sometimes I feel as thought it flows in my blood and creates beautiful pictures and  conjures smells and tastes. It's my "go to" muse when there is nothing else. Like most artists, artisans, craft persons, anyone who needs to have a source of creativity to draw from, I too need an infusion every now and then, of mind blowing proportions. Before it went " missing", a kind euphemism for stolen, I had an iPod with over a 1100 songs on it that was practically glued to my ears or plugged into a receiver to spill it into the kitchen. We also kept a library of 100 CD's.

   It didn't matter whether it was dawn, midday or breakdown /cleanup.....music made the day better and kept the pace flowing. A hard Saturday night would metamorphisize into a bleary eyed Sunday morning brunch with alarming intensity. My way of conquering the beast was a double hammerhead, VERY strong coffee with a double shot of espresso, walk over to the music and turn on Techno music, provided by one of my cooks cum d.j.. By the time my team would roll in, an hour to two later, Mozart could be on. Or The Allman Brothers, or cool Jazz. See it never really mattered what was playing, if it got my head to a happy place and the the food cooking, it was all good. Nor were we adverse to Gospel or Zen New Age.....it was where we were going, how long it would take to get there and could we sustain the momentum until it was time to leave.

  I don't know of anyone whose world or work day isn't made better by music. Doesn't matter the genre, as long as it floats your boat. It also as previously noted, can kick your creativity in the ass. I am very jealous of my musician friends who seem to have an unlimited flow of ideas and are prodigious song writers, lyricists and players. They probably have their demons and blockages, and where they go for inspiration dumbfounds me.

  I am also very conscious of what is playing in the dining room as well. The wrong kind of sound can trigger a bad dining experience, or good ones can transport it to a state of ecstasy. Too loud and it will cause the diners to elevate their voices over it and it becomes cacophonous. Too low and, well, no one hears it or is constantly questioning if there is anything to listen to. Too "modern" or radical and they're turned off. Too gloomy and they feels like they're at a funeral.

  But for cooking, we go all out. Nothing is out of bounds. Well, I did know one cook who hated The Eagles, but would almost silently suffer through one or two cuts before begging for a change. And, on Facebook people are constantly sharing tunes they've found or rediscovered, with friends just to say "Hey dig it!"  Even my students feel different if there is something in the background. If nothing else, it dims the sound of the overhead fans and constant din of the convection oven fans. So, yes, I love music, unashamedly so. And happy cooks make happy food. 

 Now, I am a Northerner by birth and frankly never ate grits till I moved South, and I have no idea where this came from, but once started it ran out constantly. Like a good song it's got layers and notes and and can get really creative when it's doing a freestyle jam.

  

Rock and Roll 5 Cheese Grits Chowder......ZZ Top or Allman Bros., makes this rock

2 c.......yellow grits...if unavailable use regular, there's a trick for getting it goldeny

2 c.......chicken stock.....water for vegetarians

2 c.......milk......wanna go lush?....cream.........

2-4 c...extra liquid, this will thicken as it develops,water will do, the others are better

4Tbsp..butter

1.........yellow onion, small dice

1.........red bell pepper, small dice

1 c......yellow corn kernels...canned or frozen is fine

S & P..to taste

2 tsp....dried pepper flakes

1 tsp....coriander

1 tsp... cumin

Turmeric.....as needed

1/4 c ..each...your favorite 5 cheeses.........Cheddar, Bleu, Parmesan, Jack, Goat, American, Swiss,

                                                                 leftover party tray bits.....it's YOURS, make it so.....the more 

                                                                 flavorful the better. I will go for the Bleu and goat,for sure ...                 .                                                                then you're on your own..........

Saute corn, onion and pepper, in butter, in soup pot

Add and bring 4 c. of stock and milk to a rolling boil

Reduce heat slightly and add a steady stream of grits, stirring constantly to prevent lumping

Reduce heat to moderate, stirring and watch out for bursting bubbles...it's molten

Add in cheeses, one at a time, incorporating thoroughly

Blend in remaining spices and correct with S&P.........if you want you can add more of each for a spicier kick

Thin chowder as necessary, but not too thin..it is a chowder and should have some "body" to it.

Remember, as always, this is your soup and however the music sends you, make the flavors yours.
And enjoy it!

As Always
Cheffy

                                                                 

  

  

It can all seem, oh, so overwhelming

  I know this should be about the holidays, family pressure, missing loved ones, the stress of extra spending and cooking, and all that jazz. But it won't be.

   Honestly the past month, in and of itself, has bee a whirlwind. Not only do I feel, I'm somehow failing loyal readers, but at the same same, my academic demands have been very heavy. It is not as easy a some might imagine, to wrangle diverse personalities or abilities in a group of "adults" (read aspiring cooks or future chefs), into a cohesive team of professionals. Never mind coming home and trying to be witty and charming.

  First , there is the fact that they may not all be on the same plain. Some are there to just get a job when it's all over, others don't put any effort in at all, because they feel they are NEVER going to use what you are showing them, so why bother, and then there are those, who want to know everything and anything to carry them through their future careers. This makes for a difficult dynamic, to say the least. The first group will show a marginal interest, do a minimal amount of work, and make an attempt to pass. The second will bail consistently, leave early for "appointments" ( although I can't, and strive to make all mine after school or when off),shirk their duties and complain when they don't get the grade they feel they deserve. The third will overachieve at everything, coming early, staying late, asking, questioning and seeking to do the more than required.  They are a light in the dark.

   I expect that this is true with many fields of learning, but there is something about wanting to teach the new guard, the "keepers" of the industry, the protectors of our craft, that drives me to encourage all beyond their imaginations. You see, it's not a question of them "getting it", it's more instilling an understanding of the processes involved. It doesn't matter if it's baking and pastry work, cooking, handling the front of the house, or managing the storerooms and walk-ins, or planning a restaurant you may never have. Everything has a place and a meaning, in coping with the demands of the business.This is a very hard fact to impress on students. Either because they have never really had any contact with it, or they think it's just not that hard out there. Well, let me tell you a little secret......it is really hard. One of the most embarrassing things that can happen, is to be let go, "fired", from an internship. This means effectively, you are so incompetant, that even though they are NOT paying you, they would rather do without the extra hands. Brutal. But, at the same time, it should be illuminating. Unfortunately, some will not even recognize it, for what it is, a cold dip in the frozen lake of Wake Up! If you are consistently late, fail to adhere to the dress code (which is there for a reason), don't know what the assignment is, wander around is if it is you first day in a new place (on week 8), fail to read your measurements and processes correctly, waste time and product, marginally clean and then leave early, dumping clean up on your fellow classmates........well, that's just not where it's at.

  I spend a considerable amount of time planning lesson, doing research ( yes, I now I'm brilliant, thank you, but now and then even a diamond needs polishing), making up exams, projects and the like. I get up early to be there for them and make myself available after class to do post postmortems and give advice. It is enormously painful to watch people a third my age, drag themselves in, late, disheveled, ill prepared for the day, and fidgety during lectures......worse to watch performances on a sub-par level.  It just staggers the imagination.

  I mean why spend the money, or at least invest it in your future if you're going to waste the time and resources? Why? I am giving you decades of knowledge, experience and enthusiasm to build your world on, why not suck it up in the time available?

   Also, I don't give a rat's ass if you think you'll never do this particular course ever in your lifetime. NOT the point. It's part of your degree requirements, so do it to the utmost. Even if you don't succeed in turning out a world class product, take pride in ATTEMPTING to do so. Any knowledge is gained knowledge and you might be surprised at what life throws you. Wouldn't you rather be armed with an idea of it, than left twisting in the wind?

   In the course of your profession, you will find that, the more you shirk your responsibilities to to your fellow team mates and coworkers, the more they will turn their backs on you in your hour of need. So don't wonder why. Oh yes, there will always be some who will be there to pick up the slack, that happens in all businesses, but that will only enable you to slack more and and effect all involved as a final result. Do you really believe that having some of your duties taken from and given to another will secure your position for the future? Time to put on the big unisex pants and make yourself necessary.

  And to the brave and caring and concerned for their futures. Good on ya. Don't think you're being ignored or forgotten. You take on all you can, regardless of your situations at home or work, show a consistent desire to learn and push through, accept responsibility and see it till the end and never lose your enthusiasm.You help make me what I am and keep me wanting to teach you more. The effort you put in really shows and makes me very proud. In the end, you will rise like cream to the top and be worth every drop. You don't even need to do any extra credit, because you do all you can to begin with, and yet you do. Brilliant!

  Now that the holiday break is over and we barely have 2 weeks till we're done, until next year, I hope you are a little more ready for what's coming. Finals and final projects, to insure you pass with suitable grades and evaluations. I have spent my down time getting these things ready for you. If you have not spent a few minutes a day getting ready for me, then I can only hope you all have photographic memories, because the last thing I want to hear, is that it's been too, oh, soooooooo, overwhelming.

  

With all the holiday craziness, shopping and eating, I won't put up a recipe.....perhaps bit later .... tomorrow is another day. 

All my love,

Cheffy  

  

  

Left to my own devices............

    Most people would agree, that being left to their own devices, will inexorably lead to trouble. Yeah, I can see that. I try to put a positive spin on it, not always succeeding, but having a hell of a good time trying.What's it all about, you wonder? There are times,when we find ourselves on our own. Our partners go off on business or events without us, for varying reasons We have time on our hands outside of our everyday plans. These can present unique opportunities to play or experiment. I say use them. No, I'm not suggesting we all run out to bars and get wasted and come home with something we'll regret the next day, although, for some, that's a tempting thought. Rather, explore the realm of creativity and resources never before thought of. Also, to revisit something that may not have gone well before.
  Stay with me now.....Seriously, when was the last time you took that cook book of the shelf, dusted it and simply randomly opened to a page, copied the ingredients, shopped and then made something? Or rifled thru Granny's old box of antique recipes and said, hmmmmmmmmm? It worked once, how's 'bout now?
  Better yet,try something totally off the wall for a future date.
These are the times, when we get to choose something that quells the longing for the loved one, shuts out the worries for their well being, stops us from wishing we were there, and gives us a sense of peace, and even accomplishment. It'll take up time,and produce something. So after the gym, the house, the pool, the dog, the reruns, the computer, et al, get up off your ass and do it.  Even just looking at all the pretty pictures can be inspiring. It can be likea trip around the world, without all the packing. It struck me, while working with my Culinary students, that our understanding of cuisine from other lands is severely limited and/or misunderstood. Mexican dishes, for example are NOT Spanish dishes. French is not Basque, or even one area in France. Moroccan.... definitely not African. So, while the man or woman is away, why not go somewhere yourself? The beautiful thing is, that instead of having pictures, you can have a dish ready for them to try when they get back.
  The Caribbean Islands offer a lovely microcosm of several different cultures and some wonderful tastes.

Cuban Black Bean Soup
Sofrito
1/2 c--green bell peppers, seeded and chopped
1/2 c-- tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
1/2 c--yellow onion, chopped
2 cloves-- garlic, chopped
2 Tbsp--fresh cilantro, chopped
1 Tbsp-- fresh parsley, chopped
   Process the ingredients into a paste. If you need to let some aggression out, pound it by hand.

Soup
1 1/2 Tsp--Annatto oil ( if you can't find this, steep some Annatto seeds in 1/2 c of oil overnite)
2 oz-- salted pork
2 oz--lean ham, trimmed and diced
1 tsp--dried oregano
1 1/2 c.--dried black beans, cleaned and soaked
1 tsp--ground cumin
3 1/2 c--chicken stock
s & p
1/4 c-- minced white onion for garnish

   Heat oil and cook pork until crisp. Drain  and reserve oil and pork
   Put oil into a pan over a medium high heat, add the paste and saute of a few minutes.You want the vegetables soft and cooked but not brown. Add the ham and cook another minute.
   Drain and rinse the beans and add to the sofrito .Add stock,oregano,cumin. You want the stock to cover the beans by about an inch or two.
  Bring this to a boil, lower the heat and simmer for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until the beans are tender. You may need to add more stock.
  Remove half the soup and puree, return to pot and simmer 5 or so minutes.
  Adjust the seasonings to taste
Back on the boat and cruise down to Jamaica

Jerk Chicken
1/4 c-- lime juice
1/4 c--water
3 1/2 pounds-whole chicken, cut in half
2 cloves--garlic, minced
  If using a grill preheat it. This can be on on a stove top in a heavy pan, or under the broiler.
Combine lime juice and water and rinse the chicken, rub it down with the garlic.

Jerk Marinade
2 tsp--pimento, ground
1/2 tsp--grated nutmeg
1/2 tsp--ground mace
1 tsp-- salt
1 tsp--sugar
2 tsp--dried thyme
1 tsp--pepper
1 c--green onions, chopped
1 c--yellow onion, chopped
1 whole-- Scotch bonnet or Jalapeño pepper
2 Tbsp--veg oil
  Blend or process all the ingredients till smooth. Again,Or..use a mortar and pestle like the natives do.It's a great work out.Pour this over the chicken and allow to marinate for 2 hours.
  Remove the chicken and cook by desired method. Grilling is the top choice, but the others will work. Cook till done.Cut the chicken into 8 or so pieces.
 *** You can cut the chicken up before marinating or buy pieces pre-cut for ease of handling.***

Fried Ripe Plantains
2--ripe plantains
Butter or oil.as needed

Cut the ends off the plantains, peel and slice lengthwise in half
Cut halves across diagonally in slices
heat butter or oil over medium heat
Add slices and brown on both sides
place on paper towels and serve hot.

Hearts of Palm Salad
Vinaigrette
1 Tbsp--passion fruit puree
2 oz--red wine vinegar
1/8 tsp--dijon mustard
4 oz--OO
salt and pepper to taste
  Whisk together and season to taste

Salad
dozen --Tomato wedges
1 can--hearts of palm, cut into 1/2 inch dice
1/2-- green bell pepper, 1/4 inch dice
1 -2 head--Boston lettuce,torn into med.pieces
1/2-- red onion, sliced thin...soaked in water for 30 minutes and dried
2 oz-- queso fesco
  Toss tomatoes w/ 2 Tbsp of vinaigrette
  Combine all ingredients and toss with with vinaigrette
  Arrange on individual plates

Coconut Rice pudding
1 can-- coconut milk
Equal amount of milk----use can to measure
1 measured can again--rice
3 eggs-beaten
1 tsp-ground cinnamon
6 tbsp-dry sherry
   Bring liquids to a low boil
Add rice and reduce heat, stirring
Simmer till liquid is almost absorbed
Stir in eggs, cinnamon, sherry and stir constantly over low heat till thickened
Pour into bowls and brown under broiler or use a torch
Can be served warm or chilled

This is a great way to enjoy the islands without leaving home. And when your partner comes home, you'll have some interesting tales to tell, as well as some good food to sample.

Bon Voyage,
 Cheffy

   .
 

I get the best head and you can too..............

  The first day of Baking 101 can be a real twist.There's so much to absorb and grasp.Plus, who the hell wants to be there? Honestly? We all want to be home in bed, rolling over and resnoring. Not Listening to this science and biology and ewwwwwwww did she says sperm? uh, ectosperm? wazzat?  OMG she said manipulate...and knead.....and head...and warm and wet....wait, what is she going on about? Is this sex ed?????? Shit , maybe I will listen.........
  No baby, you heard right, it is baking and it is erotic as all get out. I will teach you how to great great head, if you pay attention.'Cause without it, it's gonna go all limp and collapse, and you will be so disappointed. Me too. I will show you how to use your hands and in ways you never dreamed and care for those silky smooth balls with the touch of a Geisha., and rise and practically burst for you.And in some instances, burst.
  You want to bring all your dry ingredients together, properly weighed and measured. Follow your recipe and make sure you have read the procedures.There's a difference. Recipes read like a shopping list or formula, procedures tell you what you will be doing with it. Make sure you have all your equipment, tools, and needs.
  Plus, you dont need a lot of space......keep tight, keep it controlled, take your time.
Now, make sure the water is right temperature.You do have a thermometer Nurse, don't you? Put it in...the water. 105 degrees.....nice..........perfect.....now mix in your dry yeast, and stir to dissolve. Maybe a pinch of sugar, to let it feed on. And walk away to let it do it's thing . Put all your dry ingredients in the mixing bowl with the dough hook.Set it on low to begin. Get tour bowl, put a little , a drop or two or oil in it and smear it around, set aside. Let's see, how nicely our head is beginning to rise. It could take as much as 7-15 minutes. I you keep the yeast in the fridge , it'll be a little sleepy......don't hurry, slow is good. Take your time. No need to rush. When you have a nice head going, think of a beer perfectly poured in a glass, the bubbles are growing and expanding, the smell intoxicating, you're getting there. Pour it into the mixing bowl and let it go about 5-6 minutes till it al starts sticking together. Scrape all the bits together and go up a notch in speed. We want to go faster to agitate and knead. Feel the bottom of the bowl, it should be warm to the touch. Another 20 or so minutes....aren't you glad I didn't ask you to do it by hand? There is a tool for just about everything. Right tool, right job. Not that the hand job isn't good, if there's no electricity, but it gets tiring.
   Now , let's touch it. It should be coming together in a smooth ball around the hook. Looks and feels too dry...a LITTLE water drizzled in............looks to loose?...you got it, a bit more flour gently added. Let it mix.
We're looking and feeling for a lovely, smooth, silky, soft ball. It should give to the touch. Turn it out into the bowl cover with a kitchen towel or plastic film, place in a warm spot...top of fridge, gas oven-off.. PILOT ONLY ...any where away from drafts or cold. Let rise double in size, could be an hour.hour and a half......no rush. You deserve a break. Have a bon bon.
   Ready? GASP, look at it, it's so big , so full.......don't worry, you can handle it.We're gonna get a little aggressive. Punch it down. Just once, that let some of the air out, no need to inflict damage.. Now turn it out onto a well floured surface. Divide in half And knead it.Gently but firmly, push it away using the heel of your hand, bring it back with your fingers.Feel it and breathe it, it's getting a bit firmer in your hands.BUT dont't overdo it, it'll get exhausted and tough and all that effort will retard its rising and we want it up there.And what's the point , if we can't get it up and finish it? Now shape it the way you want it. Either free form , rustic, or in a pan.
  Let rise again, till double in size, score the top, brush it with egg or cream, or leave it plain and dusty.
Bake in a 400-425 oven for 20-30 minutes, golden, and tap it to see if it sounds hollow... Cool completely.
  As with all baking, even boxes, there are variables we watch for. Heat, cool, humidity, dryness, freshness of flour, and yeast and even hardness and softness of water......ovens, conventional and convection, altitude. BUT, oh look at it, look what you've done, feel the relief and satisfaction flood thru you. Was it good for you? I was for me.....
And you'll be surprised by how soon you want to do it again. Maybe even try a new trick......or two.

Basic Bread Dough

1/2 c...water 105 degrees
3tsp....salt
1 tsp...salt
1 tsp..sugar
4c....flour, preferably bread, but A.P. will work
4 Tbsp O.O.

  Put yeast in water to rise and develop a head
  Add a pinch of the sugar
  Put all dry ingredients in mixing bowl
  On low or slow, add yeast water and mix. As it begins to come together, add in O.O. Mix for 5-6 minutes.
It should feel a little sticky, increase speed to med for 12-15 minutes, if it still seems "wet" add a little flour at a time till you achieve a smooth , silky ball. It should give a bit and not stick to your fingers, and come away from the side of the bowl.
  Turn out and knead a few minutes, form into a ball and place in oiled bowl. Cover and let rise1 hour,as much as an hour and a half, or till doubled in size.
  Punch down and turn onto floured surface. Divide in two.Knead gently a few minutes and shape. Allow to double in size. Score the top with a knife brush with egg wash or cream.
  Bake till golden brown and sounds hollow when tapped.
  Allow to cool on a rack.

And enjoy the hell out of it........'cause now you can get great head.....

As always ,
Cheffy

Will I pass?

    It's a really heard question to answer.I had a friend ask me,, if he took a class under me, would he he pass. I'm not sure he liked the answer. "I don't know". Seriously, it wasn't an insult to his talent or ability, it was an honest, immediate response..I'm incabable of lying......I get many different people coming into my classes of varied education, prior work experience, no experience at all, and all knowing of everything. Or so they think. When someone wants to learn from me, it takes several variables to do so. The first is, you don't know jack. And even if you think you do, it isn't going to help. Nothing you say is going to mean a can of beans until I see you preform. Nothing in your experience is going to prepare you for the dirth of knowledge I have in my arsenal. The places I've been, the chefs I worked for and with, the circumstances I've worked under. Besides, this is not a competition, so shut up and listen. And read. And study. And focus. Smart asses need not apply. People who want to make me a daily joke.........you are so dealing with the wrong bitch.
  I am a very warm and encouraging teacher. I do not enjoy berating or making people small. The worst example I can think of is the screaming, cursing, beat you till you cry like a girl chef, that does nothing to inspire. I carry a more frame of mind. But I do demand professionalism from day one. Clean, trimmed, sharp knives, ready to hit the ground running. I don't care if you set your clocks one hour ahead, if it's going to get you there on time or even early. Phones off, no outside food, eat before you show up or bring enough for everyone. And a HUGE cappuccino for me wouldn't be a bad thing. EVER!
  We have a sorry lack of cooks who care about what they're doing.They need to be taught what they must know in order to go out and CARE about what they are cooking. So I take as a personal mission to teach them.That  said, like little acolytes they should come into the kitchen with reverence and surety.

Food crack, porn and ....

    I was thinking about the last post on First Night and it dawned on me that it needed a prologue.That, began several days before, when I went to a food and wine show.Want to talk about raising your heart rate and getting your juices flowing? Talk about food crack! Don't get me wrong, I was amped about the First Night, but like a junkie, I needed a fix and I needed it right then. So off to the Big City I went, with two former employees, who are hard core foodies in their own right. After arriving at our destination, we ran like lovers into the waiting arms of Eros. Other eager supplicants merged around us, whispers of the awaiting pleasures circulated. Pointing here and there. Murmuring hints of the joys awaiting. Knowing looks from those that had indulged.
   Before us lay a virtual panopoly of sights, smells, liquids, colors and tastes.Our mouths salivated, fingers tingled, pupils dilated, bodies shook in anticipation.Where to begin? What to to do first? How to start? Like giddy virgins, we stood and looked at what was before us, a little overwhelmed at the prospect, but definitely eager to be educated. Perhaps a taste of that finely aged Bourbon or exquisitely seductive Mescal would take the edge off and help us relax into the zone. The tables of bottles and vintages rimmed the room and snaked thru the center, almost in an effort to engage and ensnare us. This would take a plan of action. Too much, too soon and all would be lost. Too little and......well,screw it, nothing ventured, nothing gained. To be among others who loved what they did, made what they loved, indulged in their passions.We were home.
   A heady, smoky Scotch beckoned us almost immediately, golden, rich, smooth as silk, its very scent whispering deep woods and heathery fields. The hickory wafted gently into the nose. The tongue holding onto it like a whore in an alley. It was hard to let it go. But it was far too early for swallowing, so it was spit out and washed away with clear, cleansing water.We wanted to be led gently, to be educated, to make it last as long as possible.We wanted lubricants, and kisses and soft words of encouragement. There came next the clear inviting fluids of  Tequila silvery, golden, amber; Gins with their herbaceous complexities, and pristine Vodkas in all their glory and diverse infusions. And oh, the Rums.......We sank into the rhythms of the Caribbean, the flavors undulating to the music of steel drums in our heads. Small batch, mountain crafted, high distillery Whiskeys....This could be very bad......or unimaginably good...Time to breathe, pull it back, take it slower and savor the moment.Turn away from the come hither glances.
  Assailed by a vision of the sea, we shyly approached a table laden with thumb nail sized lumps of jumbo crab, mounds of cold water lobster meat, Langostines and prawns the length of a mans hand, head intact, I felt a sensation of warmth growing deep and low. My desire heightened. I am a diagnosed nymphomaniac for the glory that is the ocean. "Go ahead, take one, if you think you can handle it, I'll give you all you want". I locked eyes with him, proceeded to peel the shell off, took the head gingerly in my mouth, and gently removed it without damage and laid it aside. I closed my eyes for a moment as the firm flesh lay on my tongue, it's saltiness and sweetness, almost pulsating and alive. When I opened them, he looked at me with satisfaction, and said come back, we'll talk more.TALK!!! TALK?????......DO it again, damn it!!!!!!! But no, I was being dragged away before I was left a quivering mass,
  We came upon an alluring plate of  Iowa grown, free range pork. Heirloom breeds of pure stock that have tremendous quality.The slow braised ribs gave up the meat like willing brides and we gloried at their submission.It fell apart at a touch. Our fingers, moist with their juices, dove into our mouths to be sucked clean. Sorry, did you really think a fork is the way to go? NEVER!! This is a full body contact sport. The taste, the texture, the sublimeness.
  Duck, Quail, Venison, the bounty of the forests, pulled us deeper and deeper, enchanting, inviting, captivating. Delicate bites, little tastes of heaven. Impossible to resist and lovingly consumed with delight. The path then winding down into the valleys. And oh, the New Zealand Spring Lambs! Beautifully Frenched racks, like succulent lollipops of meat, tasting of the sweet grasses they were fed on.The exquisite Shanks, thick as well muscled forearm, dripping with bewitching earthy juices. The incredible pink blush of free range Veal, with its incomparable flavor so lovingly done to a turn.
  My eyes rested on a small inviting table of Saki.Charming aqua and iridescent bottles of heaven. I had to.I needed to. The cold liquid woke my senses like a thunderbolt. This I could not let go of. The heat descended into my body like a lovers kiss. I felt myself, as if wrapped in a silk kimono, performing a ritual, I wanted to warm it gently and release its perfume, pour it into porcelain cups.
  We had to stop, to breathe, to assimilate, to calm ourselves... in order to go forward..........
Great vintages lay spread out before us. Huge reds, mind blowing in their intensity, enticing Pinots and Syrahs, Malbecs and more. Clear, shimmery whites cloaked in green and amber, oaked and unoaked, sweet and dry, even sparkling. Leather, lace, tobacco, buttery, grassy, fruity, herby, heady, delicate. Around the world in a nano second. Synapses on full fire. Senses approaching overload but still in check.The warm glow of foreplay leading to full promise coming on.
  I turned, as if touched by a guiding hand, to feast my eyes on pristine, glistening freshly opened oysters. They lay beckoning me on piles of crushed ice, and I stood transfixed. My hand timidly reached out to cup one and  my head lay back to receive the ice cold slippery meat. I held it quietly in my mouth absorbing the flavor, the texture,the whole encompassing sensation.and then let it slip down my throat. An involuntary shudder coursed thru my body. Believe me when I say, it was not in revulsion. Another  and another and another. I swayed. I felt possessed. Another plane of ecstasy was reached.
  A slab of sushi grade Tuna, the size of my thigh, almost burgundy in color, wet, gleaming and beckoning, held me in it's thrall. A small, thin slab was presented to me. So clean, so soft, so yielding, so clean, soooooo heavenly. Tiny petals of pickled ginger, laying in a dish to clean the palate, sat next, to it. Then followed gorgeous grass fed, hormone free Montana raised beef fillets. Black on the outside, blood red on the inside. Mouth watering tenderness, almost tongue crushable and alongside, Bison, fetchingly laid out for an added temptation. Fresh earthy bread to absorb the juices that were beginning to run down my chin was mandatory.We simply didn't know how much more we could take. Giddiness was setting in fast. We weren't drunk, but most definitely intoxicated on the sensations surrounding us. It was as if we had been making love for hours with brief respites to begin again and again. Being encouraged to taste more, learn more, enjoy more.
  On small toasts of hearth baked bread, simultaneously crunchy and soft, and spread as if butter, the Foie Gras terrine lay. It was exquisite. From the moment my lips touched it, felt its delicacy,and my nose breathed in its glorious scent I was transported. We each bit in gingerly, watching the other, as if afraid it would disappear when touched. It was almost too good to be true. Did we dare do try another bite? Oh hell yea!!!!! It was ambrosia. A small swallow of champagne washed it down, but not out. This had to be it. There couldn't possibly be more in this Kama Sutra book of food. Yet, as I stood there almost complete, I detected a familiar fragrance, that caused me to turn in it's direction.  And then .....there it was......the.final chapter........the one that had been so patiently waiting to lift us to the final moment.
    He stood alone, pristine in his whites, assured in his technique, master of his domain.I floated towards him, transfixed by his eyes, by his salacious mouth beckoning me on, more than willing to be taken. He cut into the beige white Foie Gras lobe with the precision of a surgeon, scored it lightly, sprinkled salt and cracked pepper over the top and deftly lifted it on a grill plate. It sizzled as it seared, in it's own natural fat, the perfume holding me as if prey in a cobras' eyes.When it had turned golden brown, he placed it on a small white plate and handed it to me. As he observed me, grinning and knowing, I lifted the gleaming morsel and held it. The anticipation of this moment was almost unbearable. My senses began to reel. The warm creaminess, the richness dissolving in delicate layers, the ultimate smoothness like no other as it came into my mouth, the sheer orgasmic pleasure my brain was experiencing. Pictures of falling back on to soft pillows, drenched in a sensuous after glow, gleaming with the joy of ultimate pleasure, a small smile of satisfaction on my lips, floated around in my head. He nodded knowingly. We were done, sated, wrapped in a blanket of exhilarating exhaustion and euphoria.
  There are those who would say I was a sensualist, that it is this trait, that makes me good at what I do.
Well, you may very well say so, I on the other hand couldn't possibly comment.

Cheffy

It was the first night..but not the last

     It took months of wishing and hoping and planning and dreaming.  It took getting thru a summer of malaise and despair, uncertainty and self doubt. Why?  'Cause I was being human.  There are times when even the biggest, brightest and most assured get a little down and doubtful. Do we still have it? Can we still perform at a peak level? Can we handle criticism if and when it comes? Are we second guessing ourselves?  Have I lost my muse?
     I didn't grow up in the most positively reinforced atmosphere. Rather the opposite.  Never smart enough, thin enough, pretty enough. Never. And weird. On a different plane or in a different time. Doing and thinking of things that were "50 years ahead of myself" Mom used to say. Like I was a freak. Well, maybe I am.     That's not an issue with me, I'm comfortable with my strangeness.  I enjoy bouncing back and forth in different zones, playing with different ideas.
     The odds of me ever opening another establishment are slim to none.  The sheer financial and physical demands would undoubtedly kill me and that wouldn't do anyone any good, so when I first came up with the idea of doing dinners for people in a "non-restaurant " surrounding or "venue" (a term everyone seems to have glommed on),  (a) I knew it wasn't new, (b) wasn't sure the climate would accept it, (c) didn't really care, because I had a crushing desire to do my food for people who missed having me do it, and were asking for it, and looking for a comfortable way to have it.  Are they're others at it?  Sure.  Am I as good or better at it?  uh, YES.  So it has begun.
     I'm not unfamiliar with going into the new or unexplored. Part of my make up embraces new and difficult situations. It is my deep discipline and  code that allows me to see it for what it is and move forward. Alternating between being dominant and submissive gives me this freedom. More on philosophy at a later date....
     It was mutually decided that waiting for the enervating summer to pass would be the best idea. Gathering up my wits and feeling around for the "needs" of the clients, I put my mind on the actual dinner.  It was important to me that the dishes be right.  Also bringing in the correct wines to compliment the food and encourage the taste-buds to ecstasy was critical. One without the other would spell disaster. Seen that, won't do it.
    Considering dishes for clients is tricky when you know there will be disparate tastes. Am I looking to please the hosts? The guests?  Will they all blindly accept the same dish?  Will someone have an issue?  Having a restaurant quality meal, when there is not an a la carte menu for the guests to choose from, is a bear to work with.  In the end it was about pleasing me, because if I don't like it, no one will. So armed with ideas, I went off to a few markets to see what they might have in season from which to build the menu. There were a lot of good choices, but I couldn't shop too early for fear of the freshness quality deteriorating. That wouldn't do at all.
    Talking with your "counter" people (since I no longer have access to big purveyors) is critical.  When will next shipment of this item come in? Will these be available on this date? That sort of thing....breaking down the menu into needs lists.  Purchasing goods for things that need preparing ahead of time to "set". Finding out if the wines need pre-ordering. Making lists of items or tools to have with. You can't ever assume that what you need is going to be available where you are going. You are off premise or in the field.....anything goes. An Alice in Wonderland picnic.......and you can't sit on your mushroom smoking a hookah......not if you want it right.  Judicious planning is mandatory.
     I chose to take a second pair of hands to ensure that everything ran smoothly.  It helps for packing up everything to travel, double checking the needs list.  You may be called upon at any time to explain the dish, the wine , who knows.........and you want to be there  for the people eating your food.  At the same time you want to monitor the food and make sure it doesn't go to shit. Nothing kills the mood like over cooked or under done food.  No matter the size of the group, a pair or two of hands that know what they are doing and understand your vision, are a big plus.  You spent money and your guests are spending money.  Very symbiotic. Plus, the they are going to be the word of mouth for the future. Better be damn sure it's all you can be.
     We arrived on time and armed. They got comfy and relaxed with a cocktail. I called dinner when I felt the moment was right.
    The first course went out and it was simply beautiful and tempting.  Two different pates, one mousse style and one country version, with two complimentary cheeses.  Four different textures, plus sweet and savory accompaniments, to wake the mouth up. The first bottle of sparkling rose had darling little bubbles to tickle and tease. It all went down very well.
    A simple salad of slightly bitter greens lightly dressed with an herb vinaigrette, grape tomatoes and champagne grapes,  plus a glass of  white to help offset any "heaviness" sometimes associated with pate, followed.        
   Then after a brief respite the entees came out.
  Amazing fresh wild caught Sea Bass wrapped in leeks, like little presents, on a bed of soft, herbed, goat cheese Polenta, barely sautéed spinach with a compound butter quenelle, glistening and melting as we went.  This was served with a stunning 2005 Pinot and truly they were in heaven.  Nothing was left.  All eyes were bright and shiny.
     Once I manged the espresso machine, I was confident enough to serve dessert. A simple, palate cleansing Key Lime tart, with a bittersweet chocolate wafer for a kick.
    The diners were left to finish and talk amongst themselves, while we cleaned up and ensured that all was as it should be from when we came in.
     It was a huge success and and the promise of other meals was set in the works.
As I said, it was the first, but it will not be the last.

Menu
Duet of Pates.......Duck & Pork, Country Style  and Foie Gras Mousse, w/ Applewood Smoked Bacon Cheddar, and Ossau-Irati cheeses, figs, olives, Truffle Honey, Brioche toast points

Arugula, Belgian Endive & Raddichio w/  3-herb goddess Vinaigrette........baguettes and butter

Sea Bass wrapped in Leeks on soft herbed Goat Cheese Polenta, Sautéed Spinach w/compound butter

Key Lime Tart with fresh berries and 80% Chocolate wafer and Good Coffee

It's all  good,

Cheffy

This little fig stayed home.........

   As the days of summer come to a close and the air changes its' smell and temperature, I felt compulsed to gather up all the figs I could manage and preserve them. I love figs,which, although commonly referred to as a fruit, the fig fruit is actually the flower of the tree, known as an inflorescence (an arrangement of multiple flowers), a false fruit or multiple fruit, in which the flowers and seeds grow together to form a single mass. Woulda thunk it?
  They range from A-Z,.. Alma, Adriatic, Black Mission, Brown Turkey, Brunswick, Celeste, Lampiera, King, Marabou, Zidi and no doubt a few others that escape me. While figs grow predominately in the Mediterranean area, they are found in other regions in the world with similar growing climates. Northern India and neighbors, United States, Australia, South Africa. Plenty of places to grab up these beauties.
 They date back to about 9300 BC in the Jordan Valley, predating wheat as a cultivated food. In Roman times they were used to fatten geese for a an ancient form of foie gras. Brilliant!
  Fresh, dried or preserved they are glorious.
  Sweet, sticky,succulent and positively sensuous in nature. Even cutting one in half is beautiful....the dark skin over a creamy white layer, giving way to a blush of rose with soft speckles surrounding a pucker of a kiss.It makes you want to dive your tongue into the center and draw it into your mouth.
 Figs also appear in writings dating from the Bible and the use of leaves to modestly covering oneself; the Quran, which describes them a paradisaical fruit for their lack of seeds; Greek, Roman and Hindi as symbols of femininity, due to the inside appearance of the fruit. So an offering to your enemy might be construed as calling them a bunch of girls. I think it started a war.....but referencing a girl or woman is almost erotic.
  So while the days are still mild and easy, a good way to enjoy figs, should be as well. Find a few cheeses that you enjoy...goat, Manouri, a lovely sheep's milk, even an Asiago or something with a little bite to it against the soft sweetness of the fig. A cured meat or two...a beautiful Prosciutto, paper thin, a good dried salumi, or Genoa...the saltiness is an eye opening combination.... Arrange these on a plate with some figs sliced in half and revel in the colors, then the flavors. See how the Prosciutto mirrors the fig? Maybe a small dipper of honey on the side as well.
   If you want, you can put some goat cheese on the figs and broil them, or wrap the figs in the meat.Grill them, roast them, dry them, use them in a sauce, puree them and make sorbet or soup, but mostly enjoy them
And if you have more than you know what to do with....


Figs Preserves/Jam


5 C-washed, cut up figs (if skins are gross, peel)
1/2 C water
1/4 lemon juice, or acid of choice....o.j, balsamic vinegar,add different flavors
7 C sugar  *see note*
1 package pectin


   In a heavy bottom pot,put figs, pectin, acid, water.....place on stove over med high heat. Add sugar and stir to boiling, careful not to scorch. If you have a stick blender, puree.If you have a potato masher, smoosh till mostly smooth.Alternatively use your blender jar.......Careful this stuff is molten and will inflict damage.
There are different trains of thought here.Strain through cheese cloth to remove bits or leave natural. I'm the latter.
  Here's where the fun begins.....you can add different elements of hot, sweet, savory or spicy to the brew for your own personal touch. I've used peppers, vanilla, lavender, basil, chocolate, even wines. But softly and subtly.....and NOT all those together. Pick 2-3 that like each other and meld.
  Pour into your prepared jars, secure the lids and follow canning instructions. Allow to cool at room temperature.


*NOTE*...you can use 4 c sugar for a low sugar, you can use Splenda.......the pectin you choose will guide you through.
  To test if it's ready, take a about 1/2 tsp of mix on a cold spoon and let rest. If it slides, add a little more pectin and boil.If it holds, its ready.
  Since figs have a very short shelf life after picking, this is a great way to keep your bounty.Also, they are great gifts full of love.
  Eat them any way you like, they're healthy and do good things for you. Pop one in you mouth and let the flavor roll around or crack open a jar and spread it on a muffin, hot waffles, an apple, what have you........
  But mostly salute the end of summer with a fig...........


As always,
Cheffy

Everybody's talking and talking and talking.................

  I spent a few days doing something I don't normally do.Watching other people make all manner of  food on T.V..From stressful, gut wrenching competitions.. to a house wifey, can opening sort of thing.... to fucking road rage mentality of berating and demeaning......to a quiet beach, pulling it out of the sea, cleaning it, gutting it, slapping it down on some fire....... I have been around, Europe, Middle East, crisscrossed the States, eaten in roadhouses, cooked on an engine, dug pits in the dessert, cooked with electric, or a gimbaled gas stove in rough seas and even stared out at the Pacific counting waves while grilling orders in a shack.... Of all the things I know and have accumulated, one thing stands out.......There is NOTHING that hasn't been done. It's simply in the way you do it, that makes it different.
  And it is these differences that make us unique. It can range from how we feel at the moment, to the equipment we are working with, to the items we have available, to the environment, .....to how much wine we've drunk while attempting to do it. A personal favorite of mine at home but never in a professional capacity.
  We are consumed by what we consume. There was a time when it was the simply natural thing for us to do. We woke, ate, went about our day, stopped to eat again, continue our chores and then ate......Since the dawn of time. First raw and what was gleaned, then with fire. Can you imagine the look on HIS face when he tasted that , hot, succulent, smoky, charred piece of meat? Holy crap! And don't we still strive to get that feeling? We all think we want something new, something different, the new trend, the new idea. In reality,we turn to the things that bring us the most comfort and pleasure. A bowl of chicken soup, mac and cheese, Oreos and a glass of milk....you get the drift. It's not necessarily what is the new fad or trend. It's not about 20 flavors vying for competition on the tongue. It's about clean, unsullied, and good. It's about the flavors and aromas hitting us in the in the right way, melding to create a sublime sensation in our mouths, firing all synapses.
  A friend came over one night, all wound up with anger and frustration, positively seething. I was in the process of cooking some herbed pasta I'd found and rummaging around in the fridge. He said he wanted it simple. Actually, he took it over, made me the helper, and began to relax, because it made him happy to be cooking. By the time dinner was over, he was able to go home, more relaxed and isn't that what we all want?
  Our lives are filled with pressure and complications. Our food should, whenever possible, give us pleasure and contentment, and fill a void that isn't just in our stomachs. It should nourish our senses, as well as restore our bodies. I'm not remotely saying that the "cutting edge", the innovative, the "new" don't have their place. Not at all. But over time the true test of a beloved dish, is it's ability to trigger our deepest needs. Simple variations on simple themes are the best. It's like things that grow together going together.And that holds regardless.Oddly enough, some of these t.v.people who made names for themselves doing all manner of food are now hawking........you got it....simple food.........like it never existed. I guess what goes around comes around.
  
Tomato Soup

2 C- tomatoes.....fresh (seeded and rough chop)
1/3 c- celery.........rough cut
1- small yellow onion..rough cut
1 small glove garlic...mashed
1 -2 tsp. Olive Oil
3-4 C-vegetable or chicken stock
salt and pepper....to taste
sugar or splenda....to taste
 a couple pinches of parsley, basil, thyme...if dry add during simmer to bloom, if fresh add at end for a few minutes
  
In a heavy bottom pot, over medium heat add O.O., once it "spreads out", add tomatoes, onion, garlic celery and stir till wilted and soft.Add stock and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes.Puree with stick blender or in a blender.Return to pot to keep warm.Or if you need a chilled version, place in fridge.Adjust seasonings to your taste.If using dry herbs, you need 1/2 the amount of fresh, you don't want to to overwhelm.And if you need something a little richer , you can thicken it with cream.Serve with a garnish of fresh basil, grated cheese

Grilled Cheese.... oh,REALLY?.......  I couldn't resist

A good crusty bread......Country, French, Italian, Multi -grain...sliced
Cheese......Brie, Jarlsberg, Muenster, Cheddar, Goat, Provolone,..... what's in the box..........
O,O or butter

Heat a skillet or grill pan.Drizzle a little O.O. or a pat of butter....not enough to fry, just to get the bread colored, and melt the cheese. If you have a "press" use it. If not wrap a brick in foil will do the trick.
OR...for a few less calories if needed.......put open faced slices in toaster oven and melt,

Have some lettuce greens around that you "must" use up? Sprinkle them with some O.O.,fresh ground s&p, or simple vinaigrette. It'll round everything out.

And remember, in the worst case scenario, find that can in the back of the pantry, heat it up and fiddle with it for fun.....get that white bread and American slices...........it's o.k.

Simply, Cheffy




 

fuckfuckfuckfuckfuck

   Damn, there are just some days when everything locks up, shuts down and refuses to come out.I think It was Bulowski who said something about, if you have to sit in front of the keyboard for hours and force it, don't do it.
Well, it'd been that kind of run.
  Why does it happen? Who the hell knows? Maybe it's terminal grey skies and storms, a lover that doesn't call, a cat that pukes on the floor and you find out by stepping in it, or too many experiments gone bad and and dishes and pans and crap all over the kitchen and and a sticky floor...
And nobody giving a rat's ass. Sometimes a girl is too tired to care about the dirty dishes in the kitchen sink. And yes, I love Annie Lennox, ....
   I'm thinking school work piled up and it's all ready the close of the quarter and I'm frustrated by their up and down down performances,with very little time to go.Some times practicals go well , but there are days when it's all shit.......Like nothing stuck from one day to the next......hello, memory? What do you not understand......it's all about the formula, then taking your time and watching your temperature. No two ovens are alike. No two ovens are equal. And not all recipes are good for convection ovens, if you don't know how to adjust. And if you don't pay attention to the yield, you are gonna wind up with a result you don't expect. Or want. So damn it, read it, see it in your mind, think it out. Stop running around looking for things you need. Mise en place! Get everything you need first, all the ingredients, the tools, the pans. This ain't a box of Duncan Hines! This is real, from scratch and takes some thought. Don't tell me you can't find "it", when I can go in and put my hand on it without looking and you were just there for something else, in front of it! Puleeeeezzzzeee! Read the recipe first, read the procedure next, gather up everything , then proceed.
   Instructors get frustrated too. It's not that I think I'm holy, holy. There's a reason I'm doing it. A need and desire to see people who are spending their money on an education, get the best that can be given. Why would you not want to grasp the concept? There has to be a point where, "just getting a passing grade," is not enough.When you stop thinking,"well I'm not gonna do this full time, it's just a course requirement". This is not a soft business you that you are working towards entering. This is a balls out, dog eat dog industry and if you have any doubts, read a trade rag and see how many open and close in a year. Everything is a requirement!      Everything is a weapon in your arsenal of abilities. Everything you learn is one more tactic to insure your advancement in your career. Dessert is the last thing people remember, it finishes the experience,ergo if it sucks.the whole evening is blown.
  I knew a place that barely got it's doors open, only to close in 3 months.3MONTHS!!...the planning, the work, the effort, the investment.....down the drain. Snap the fuck out of it!
 . Fine, it's not ALL their fault. I, have, unfortunately, that there are discrepancies in some areas. It's as tho some things have not been totally tested before printing the book, or edited with exclusions. If that doesn't mess with you, nothing will. BUT......if you go over everything first, and I do give plenty of time to review, then something should scream "WRONG".......and, call me to you, to look at it....and we'll figure a way to fix it. If you get me after the fact, all we can do is assess what went wrong, scrape it in the trash and begin a new. This is part of the learning process. I learned, you will too. Nobody is born with this. And yes, I expect to study on your own. It's not automatic.You need to do somethings by yourself.
  I spent two very long yrs.doing it over and over again, from 10:00 at night till 6:00 in the morning, often alone, getting items ready for opening, to meet the demands. I would start with the yeast breads to allow for rising and proofing times, work some cakes in between, maybe a pie, then as the breads went in to bake, gather ingredients for the quick breads and morning coffee. One item would be left to do which would signal the end. God, it felt like completing a marathon. Everyday. 6-7 days a week.
  It takes rigid discipline.........which, I think today, is sadly lacking; sheer will, and a desire to produce the best, your best. If you thought this would be a piece of cake, you were sadly mistaken. It takes sacrifice. And tenacity. You ..karate kid, me...Mr Miagi..........focus, open your mind and senses........be prepared for the unexpected.
   And , now for something completely different........

Chocolate Soufflé

3- egg yolks
2 3/4- oz sugar
dash of vanilla or a vanilla bean, split and scraped
2 3/4-oz of all purpose flour
1 cup-milk
1 oz-unsweetened chocolate
2 cups-egg whites (about  6 egg whites)

Set oven at 375 degrees
Butter and sugar 6, 4-5oz soufflé cups
 
  Mix the yolks with half the sugar and vanilla.Add flour, stirring till a smooth paste forms. (If using a bean add to milk while heating in next step)
  Heat milk slowly to a boil,careful not to scorch.This is when you add the bean scrapings and pod to steep.Remove pod
  Melt chocolate in a small bowl over warm water or in microwave in 15 second bursts, stirring to prevent burning.
  Add the yolk mixture to the milk for a 2-3 minutes. Use a whisk to mix. Then use a wooden spatula to stir till the paste no longer sticks to the sides.
  Put the paste in an electric mixing bowl and beat, not whip, for 10-15 minutes.Add the chocolate and mix well. Scrape into a bowl to cool
  Clean mixing bowl thoroughly and dry.Whip the egg whites with a dash of salt, till meringue-like peaks form, Gradually add remaining sugar and beat till stiff. The whites should not slide if the the bowl is tipped.
 Fold the whites into the paste in 1/4 increments till well combined.Spoon into prepared soufflé cups
 Bake 15 minutes in a lower 1/3 of oven
 Serve with powdered sugar and maybe a Chantilly whipped cream
This will double batch nicely, if you need it.

And then who cares if it rains, the phone doesn't ring, and the dishes don't get washed.................... as for the cat................well you're on your own.

As always,
Cheffy



.

The things we do for love..........

   Oh, it's a lot .........Whether as a lover, child, friend, parent, partner, teacher, student or all the thousands of other components we are........eventually we yield to doing something out of love. Desire helps, and at the right moment, a dash of seduction and a pinch of anticipation, because in the end, we want to hear that sigh, see that closing of the eyes in wonder, that utter look of pleasure and a smile for our efforts. We do it for love........whether we're giving it or receiving it.

   Some times I hear, "I hate to cook, or bake"........DON'T. It's o.k. If you hate to do it, why subject yourself and others to it? There are cabillion places to, go to or take away or have delivered. There's no shame attached. And hopefully the results are satisfying.You can always buy it, go to a friend who loves to do it, have a glass of wine, sit back and watch.

   In cooking, there are people who work at it and then, there are people who love what they do.It shows thru in everything they make.They constantly taste and tease the food to become a piece of themselves that they want to express. 

   A good friend once told me about a time they ate in my restaurant.Her husband put a bite of the dish I had made in his mouth, stopped, sat back, closed his eyes and sighed. That's what I'm talking about. And it touches me to know that there were others, who felt that. 

   Don't think for a minute that sometimes I don't get frustrated, go blank, cry or am simply tired..........I am not a machine. 
   But love is a very compelling force. Some times love just needs to be simple,
uncomplicated,enjoyed......with pleasure.........


Simply Lovely Wellingtons 

(2) 6-8 oz beef tenderloins
salt & pepper
1-2 tsp.clarified butter or veg oil
1/2 c fresh spinach
1/2 tsp minced garlic
1/2 tsp minced shallot
splash of white wine or a squeeze of lemon juice
1-2 oz- foie gras (pate will work fine...found in many stores today in tins or deli sections)
1 oz -shaved truffle peelings....(these can be optional, but...oh my)
2 -6x6 squares of puff pastry......(bless you freezer section)
egg wash

   Lay puff pastry out to soften, a roll out to about 3/16".If you think you need more time before shaping, place in refrigerator to stay cold, warm, soft puff is a bear to work with.
  With sauté pan over high heat, add butter or oil.
   Lightly season the beef with s&p, and sear on all sides to seal meat, these should be very rare inside.If you like your meat more well down, you can let it go longer, remember it WILL be in the oven to finish.
   Remove to a plate and let cool. on a lower heat,in remaining juices, add garlic and shallots,cook for a minute or so, add and toss spinach gently in pan till barely wilted. Flash with a little white wine or lemon. This will create a teeny acidic bite.
   Top each filet with spinach, a medallion of foie gras and sprinkle with truffles...if using them.
   Brush edges of pastry with a little egg wash. Put a filet in the center of each square and bring the corners up as if tying a present and twist them ( separate the four lengths and let them flop over like a bow, or snip and trim, creating a little nipple)  Conversely, you can place the beef upside down in the center, holding everything and slipping your fingers out.Wrap the puff around it, pressing gently to seal. Brush with egg wash
  Place these on a lightly oiled pan and bake in a 400 degree oven until the pastry is lightly browned.15-20 minutes.

   NOTE: If you get distracted or want everything out of the way before dinner........store them in the fridge and bake off when you sit down...
...
   Serve with a small puddle of sauce, just enough to touch each bite.
There are several different sauces you can do.....Cabernet Demi-glace, Madeira, Bordelaise,even Bearnaise.The first three come from brown sauce or reductions and use wine and a butter finish, and the Bearny, from Hollandaise, by adding some tarragon. Guess we'll need to do a few sauces, but you're probably good for now. If not, let me know and I'll give you a few. It's easier, to have some stock, brown sauce, or Demi on hand to create great sauces, than you might think.

     And if you have a whole lot of love share, get a 4-5 lb beef tenderloin, (invariably less expensive sometimes by $3-$4 per lb), multiply the rest of the ingredients times 5, prepare as listed, roll it up in a full sheet of puff pastry and if there are any pieces of puff  available, cut out little leaves and shapes and "glue" them on with egg wash, and when done, slice the "log" and put slabs of Wellington on plates.The colors are glorious to see. The blush of the meat, the earthiness of the green, the glossy gleam of foie gras and golden ring of the pastry.You will look so good, too..........

 These aren't just for special times.....rather, they make times special. 'Cause it's about the love........sometimes you gotta.
Cheffy

It's a treat to beat your meat.........

  Ha.....thought you knew where this was going, didn't you? No, not that down that road today.This is more along the lines of letting a little aggression out on some pieces of veal. Now I know in todays PC world  veal is one of those things that people shy from, but there are some totally humane producers out there. There was a time when it was all about the pristine whiteness of a restrained calf force fed solely on mothers' milk.  Now free range happy animals give you happy meat, not as white,but much more delectable. With beautiful results. Check your with local co-op or whole food style market.
  When I was a girl, my Father and I had our Friday nights, where I would meet him at his office and we would go to restaurants around town, exploring and tasting and savoring. It gave Mom a break and introduced me to an unknown world of flavors and techniques and styles. It wasn't always about the elaborate, so much as the seductively simple way that these dishes were prepared.  Clean, inviting, aromatic... and the flavors!!!!!!!   Many of Dad's chef friends would allow me to venture in these here-to-fore secret worlds of mayhem and passions.........heat and love.........'cause they did love what they did...........and I was completely and properly hooked. I a virtual innocent, yearning to absorb all I could.
  Was it a man's world?  By all means.........we women were not supposed to be able to handle the physical stress, the heat, the demands.....in all, the pressure. But I wanted it, and learned to grow and thrive in it.
   Chef was a big man, arms like railroad ties, dark dangerous eyes and a black moustache. I knew he could eat me alive and reduce me to jelly......but ya know, when he smiled at me with those even white teeth, my fears washed away and I let him show me all he could.  He took me took me to the butcher block where there was a smooth pinkish veal round, cut it in half, gave me a razor sharp knife and said, "Do as I say and I do". Kindly and gently showing me how to keep my fingers, we sliced off several pieces together and laid them on a plate by the block.  And then, after we wrapped and protected the rest......this is what happened.......

Veal Piccata     4-5 ppl....

1 1/2 lb of veal top round, cut into 3 oz portions
2  eggs , beaten
11/2 oz of grated parmigiana cheese
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp ground black pepper
3 oz of flour (as needed)..for the gluten free, use a flour you're comfortable with or dispense with altogether
1-2 oz oil     (as needed)..I prefer clarified butter for color and taste......if veg oil is what you have , o.k.....
2 lemons....one cut into quarters to squeeze for juice and 1 to slice into thin rounds for finish
Dry white wine.............if you can't drink it , don't cook with it.....
1 Tbsp chopped shallots
1 fat healthy clove of garlic, smashed and chopped
1 Tbsp of capers
1 Tbsp whole unsalted butter

1-1 1/2 pounds  linguine or angel hair pasta...cooked al dente, rinsed till you don't feel the heat and LIGHTLY oiled.  Reserve some of the pasta water.

    Place the meat between 2 pieces of plastic or wax paper.....this keeps you from tearing the meat and "splatters" from going all over the kitchen.
    Pound the portions into 1/4 " thick pieces.  You don't need a meat tenderizer gadget if you have a rolling pin or a heavy pan.  Gently but firmly from center to edge running your fingertips across the meat to feel the evenness.  Employ your senses, in this case the sense of touch.  Food speaks it's own language.  It's sensuous, it's dirty. You have to get your hands in it, on it, around it, through it...feel it, smell it, taste it,and even sometimes listen to it.
 
   Thoroughly mix the eggs and grated cheese and set aside.
   Blot the veal dry with a paper towel, season w/salt and pepper, dip in egg mix and then dredge.  Blotting removes excess moisture and helps to create a better sear. And searing seals in the flavor.
   Heat pan over medium heat, add olive oil and /or butter, an ounce or two ( you don't need much...1/2" and you're frying... you want color and flavor, not grease)
   Add veal and sauté on one side for approx. 2 minutes or slightly golden.....turn and repeat. Remove to a pan with a rack.  You may keep it in the oven on the lowest heat to stay warm.  If you don't have a rack, a plate with a paper towel will do.  Just realize that the side on the paper towel may end up a little soggy.
   Toss in shallots and garlic, sauté till soft and "deglaze" with a few oz of white wine.This will sizzle and reduce and then squeeze a quarter or 2 of  lemon and taste..add capers..........correct as needed...salt , pepper, wine, lemon juice....Remove from heat, stir in cold butter, sauce will achieve a silkiness.Slide in some lemon circles....IF you want a thicker sauce, add a few oz. of your pasta water to it and reduce.

At this point you can add the pasta to the pan and stir, or place it on the plates, lay the veal medallions down and nap (spoon) it over the dish and place a few of the lemon slices on it.
Some shaved Asiago or Romano would be delightful...........

This is crisp,bright, clean and simple..........uncomplicated

No one expects the Spanish Inquisition

  For the most part, if it can go, wrong it will. But in all honesty, it doesn't happen as often as one might think. Usually there's quick fix. I am always getting a 911 phone call or message screaming for help. The first thing to do is breathe. Chefs are not gods, we're fallible, we just have a better collection of "what to do" cards in our our decks. And anyone who says they've never resorted to a "quick fix" is a liar. I've been in enough kitchens to to know that there's usually the jar, bottle, box or package to act as an emergency kit when the moment arises.It's gonzo band aid work, but can haul your butt out of the fire in a pinch.
  Frankly there are so many companies producing pre-packaged goods for the uninitiated that it's hard to resist squirreling some away. Some suck, some don't. Fresh is best, from scratch is amazing. Some things take a lot of time.but in the end...so worth it, and some things can be done in the blink of an eye. For example, most people will not attempt a Hollandaise from scratch.Even some of my cooks won't do it for fear of breaking it.Or they have been through protracted lessons of water baths, right temperatures, sloooooooow drizzles, etc. Takes them for freaking ever and then....breakage.You don't have to be a saucier with yrs of experience to make it.If you have a food processor, a stick blender, or a regular blender....you can do it.If you don't, you can do a great "mock up" and generally no one knows. It's all in putting the right items together at the right time, in the right order.
Basic Hollandaise: approx. 4 cups..(can be easily cut in half)
 ........First you will need to clarify some butter.... always a good thing to have at hand and it will keep for a while in the fridge, but you can do it in a snap.Melt the butter and skim off the foam.Do this over a low flame and the solids will will drop to the bottom.Use a fat skimmer (screened) or slotted spoon or a ladle.The remaining butterfat at will be clear.Dump the impurities............

3/4 tsp- of cracked black pepper...fresh ground; in a jar; whole in a bag and crushed; or use a coffee grinder
3 oz.-red wine vinegar..or white, or cider..........experiment on tastes
8 egg yolks
18 oz - clarified butter--warm...if you test it on your wrist and don't feel it, it's warm.We're 98.6 and you don't want to over cook the yolks and curdle them...(p.s.1 yoke holds about 2 oz of butter)
1/2 oz- lemon juice
salt, to taste
dijon mustard,to taste
cayenne- to taste or not

   In processor bowl with metal blade...Put yolks and turn on.Add vinegar.and process for a minute or 2.This will create a "cooking" process from the acid in the vinegar and the speed.Slowly add the warm butter in a steady stream.It will start to emulsify and thicken.You'll "hear" it change in consistency as well as see it.
drizzle in lemon juice,add a pinch of salt,a 1/2 tsp of dijon, and for a kick, a sprinkle of cayenne.Stop, taste and adjust your flavors for your needs.
   It is essentially ready to serve, but will keep for 2 hrs in a water bath over a LOW heat.
Try it in a blender....not My favorite because thick emulsions tend to "burn" out the motor; stick blender and bowl or cup work well, too.
  Once you are comfortable, you can use this basic recipe and do several other variations.
Mousseline....fold in 5 oz of whipped cream so light and airy
Maltese...2 oz. of orange and a little of the zest ( if you have blood oranges you are blessed), a flavor great for fishes
Bearnaise....add some fresh tarragon
Choron....tricky,but worth it...requires 2-3 oz of tomato and can really break the emulsion if added too fast or more than the yolks can handle.......if nervous about this grab your favorite hot sauce and have at it..... has a blushy color that's so pretty.Fabulous with big meats, steak and eggs, potatoes.........anything you like with a "bite"....Oooohhhh... Shrimp and Cheddary Grits.............just saying
Congratulations! You have made your first "Mother Sauce" and  can experiment all you like. Buttery and silky and a little goes a long way.

IT BROKE!!!!!!!and they're almost here.............
Shhhhhh....grab your mayo, mustard, vinegar, lemon and spices....Put a cup in a bowl, add the other ingredients, in stages, tasting as you go, thin it with a little water, till you achieve the flavor your happy with. Not totally the same and the oil taste may be there a bit ...but......... if you have to.......

SO practice , practice practice......the results are well worth it.

Why why why

    Perhaps the most frequently asked question, when people find out who and what I am, is why do I do what I do. The ice breaker answer is generally, because I'm loonier than a tune, insatiably curious and ,tho not yet proven by the psychology field , a bit of a masochist. Let's face it; you gotta be CRAZY to subject yourself to a brutal array of hours and the physical demands of lifting, hauling, toting and barging in close quarters, in extreme temperatures. I have a curious nature that makes me want to try anything, taste anything, learn anything.And lastly, well , when was the last time you let yourself be talked to, like you were worthless, useless, inane or worse had a 5 pound loin of pork thrown at you because the Chef thought it was ruined? And then came back the next day for more.Then, there are the burns, the cuts, the scars, the blood, the salt of your own sweat in yours, eyes blinding you and the screaming that you'll never make it.... And no, never been on Hell's Kitchen, but I've been to hell and back..As a quick divert from "WHY?", I personally don't subscribe to brutality, mental or physical, in a kitchen as a method of "controlling" a kitchen..I have no desire to reduce people to tears, or make them feel inadequate.I want my cooks doing their utmost, being warriors who will hold the line and fight for me, knowing that when when the shit hits the fan, I will be right there with them and lead them threw the fire.Not distracted by doubt and fear of reprisal.
    O.K., why?........I love.........
I love the feel of food; the silkiness of a piece of meat sliding thru my fingers as I filet it, the smell of food; it's clean , fresh, vibrant scent, the sound of it; sizzling, bubbling, snapping , sighing. And ,oh, the taste of it.........sweet, salty, hot, spicy. Lastly, the look of a gorgeous plate that makes you want to drink it in before devouring it. It's all pleasure based. I know it ,you know it.
    That's why...........I just love it!